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Tools:
- spark plug socket
- socket that fits the other end of spark plug socket (in my case, 19 mm)
- 1.5" extension bar that fits the 19mm socket,
- ratchet, ideally the kind that locks the socket in place
- gap gauge
- anti-seize compound, dielectric grease
- 12, 10, 8mm sockets, extensions of 18-24" combined length
- flat screwdriver
- flashlight
- some heavy-duty hand-washing stuff
- about 3 hours
Start with passenger side. Remove airbox completely. That opens (some) access to the cylinders.
Unplug wires from coils (use screwdriver to release the catch). Unscrew the bolt that holds the coil over the spark plug. Unscrew it enough to pull out the coil; that way it will stay with the coil. Gently pull out the coils (requires some twisting and cursing; not a lot of space). Insert the spark plug socket, the other socket over it. Now you can unscrew the spark plug.
Put some anti-seize compound on the new spark plug thread, some dielectric grease on the tail. Insert spark plug into the spark plug socket, GENTLY guide it into the hole, tighten by hand (about 15 turns), another turn or so with the 19mm socket and wrench - that will crush the compression ring ensuring good contact. Put coils back, plug wires, assemble the airbox.
Driver size:
Remove battery and the vacuum booster (two bolts on firewall, one on top of wheel well). Unhook the tube from the booster and put it where the battery was, that way you don't need to disconnect the other stuff that goes into it. Follow the same procedure (with more cursing, as there's less space) to replace the plugs.
Put the vacuum booster back, then the battery.
You have just saved $300.
(Для незнакомых с конструктивными особенностями японского трактора: это оппозитный 4-хцилиндровый мотор, т.е. два блока по два цилиндра напротив друг друга. Двойные распредвалы в головках, наддув - свеча сидит очень глубоко. Всё это запихано в нишу между передними колёсами - хрен доберёшься.
- spark plug socket
- socket that fits the other end of spark plug socket (in my case, 19 mm)
- 1.5" extension bar that fits the 19mm socket,
- ratchet, ideally the kind that locks the socket in place
- gap gauge
- anti-seize compound, dielectric grease
- 12, 10, 8mm sockets, extensions of 18-24" combined length
- flat screwdriver
- flashlight
- some heavy-duty hand-washing stuff
- about 3 hours
Start with passenger side. Remove airbox completely. That opens (some) access to the cylinders.
Unplug wires from coils (use screwdriver to release the catch). Unscrew the bolt that holds the coil over the spark plug. Unscrew it enough to pull out the coil; that way it will stay with the coil. Gently pull out the coils (requires some twisting and cursing; not a lot of space). Insert the spark plug socket, the other socket over it. Now you can unscrew the spark plug.
Put some anti-seize compound on the new spark plug thread, some dielectric grease on the tail. Insert spark plug into the spark plug socket, GENTLY guide it into the hole, tighten by hand (about 15 turns), another turn or so with the 19mm socket and wrench - that will crush the compression ring ensuring good contact. Put coils back, plug wires, assemble the airbox.
Driver size:
Remove battery and the vacuum booster (two bolts on firewall, one on top of wheel well). Unhook the tube from the booster and put it where the battery was, that way you don't need to disconnect the other stuff that goes into it. Follow the same procedure (with more cursing, as there's less space) to replace the plugs.
Put the vacuum booster back, then the battery.
You have just saved $300.
(Для незнакомых с конструктивными особенностями японского трактора: это оппозитный 4-хцилиндровый мотор, т.е. два блока по два цилиндра напротив друг друга. Двойные распредвалы в головках, наддув - свеча сидит очень глубоко. Всё это запихано в нишу между передними колёсами - хрен доберёшься.
